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There are plenty of good places to eat and drink in this particular part of the Welsh Marches. This part of Wales and the borderlands around offer great restaurants, pubs and cafes. In Hay itself, in Broad Street, The Three Tuns is one of the best dining pubs in Britain, and Kilverts Inn is a famous pub in the centre of town, as is the Swan at Hay in Church Street or The Old Black Lion in Lion Street. The Baskeville Arms was once more famously known as "The Swan" in the diaries of Reverend Francis Kilvert from the late 1800s. Nestled in the village of Clyro, it's a mile from Hay.
Café Hay, attached to the Craft Centre Complex, is perfect for a good breakfast, freshly made cakes or a light lunch. Their Spanish omelette is very popular with regulars. The Granary in Broad Street is a very popular, bustling vegetarian venue for lunchtimes, and the food is good, filling and well-priced. Red Indigo is a well-thought-of Indian restaurant in Castle Street. As for tea rooms, Hay is the place to come for these: The Old Stables Tea Rooms is popular for its old-fashioned quaintness and great tea time fare; and Shepherd's is famous for its delicious locally made sheep's milk ice-cream and properly made coffee.
Not far away, outside Brecon on the A470, is the Felin Fach Griffin, which is a wonderful gastro pub with a good atmosphere. It has open fires and comfy sofas for sinking into after a good meal.
A trip out of Hay past Hay Bluff, over Gospel Pass and down into the Llanthony Valley will reward you with breathtakingly beautiful countryside, hillscapes, views, wild ponies, and remote hill farms. Go as far as Llanthony to visit the famous Cistercian priory, but also to refresh yourselves at the pub at Llanthony Priory, an eccentric place tucked in right next to the ancient ruins . This is a perfect stop off for a refreshing pint after a good stiff walk up to Offa's Dyke at the top of the Hatterell ridge.
On the other side of the hill, east of the Llanthony Valley and across the border at Craswell, you will find The Bull’s Head. This is a unique pub and restaurant set in the superb countryside of The Black Mountains. The character of this old drover's inn provides the ideal surroundings to enjoy the fine food prepared by Charles and Kathryn Mackintosh, who took on the running of this iconic Herefordshire pub after returning from a successful career in the south of France. Open from Thursday until Sunday each week, Charles and Kathryn's aim is to create a haven in the mountains for lovers of good food. Try the bresaola, made from home-cured Herefordshire beef using a recipe originally sourced from the Jewish quarter of Rome; or the home-made Gloucester Old Spot sausages from pork reared locally at Glan Baddon Farm in Michaelchurch Escley.
Situated near Abergavenny, The Walnut Tree Inn and The Hardwick are both important destinations for food lovers. Under new enlightened ownership, The Walnut Tree has recovered from its unhappy interregnum after the departure of the iconic Franco Taruschio, and recently gained a Michelin star with renowned chef Shaun Hill (www.thewalnuttreeinn.com) Stephen Terry at The Hardwick is a bit of a genius, and doesn't need decorations (although he has had plenty) to entice happy diners from far afield. His portions are generous, his touch is light, and the bill is never too painful at the end of the meal.
The Crown at Pantygelli is another good pub with excellent food at the other end of the Llanthony valley from Hay, but is worth a detour.
The Nantyffin Cider Mill between Crickhowell and Brecon serves ‘the bistro food of rural France’ (01873 810775). Their Champagne and wine is well-chosen. Closed Sunday evening and all day Monday.
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